Big Views at Big Bend National Park

After living in central Texas for 11 years, we finally had the chance to visit Big Bend National Park. The fact that this park is located in a remote area in the far southwest corner of the state means you really have to plan to get there. Although not as well-known as some of the other national parks, Big Bend’s beautiful and diverse scenery definitely make it worth the long drive.

Seeing mountains as we approach Big Bend.

Quick Stop in San Angelo:

We were happy to be able to include a trip to Big Bend National Park in our planning as we headed west this spring. Along the way, we stopped in San Angelo to show our friends Steve, Joan, Don, and Lynette the beauty of our city and the surrounding area. We also had fun visiting with our daughter, Caitlyn, son-in-law Adam, and his parents Sara and Marcus before it was time to head south to Terlingua.

Terlingua:

We didn’t pick Terlingua because it’s the chili capital of the world or because it once had a beer-drinking goat who was elected mayor (yes, really!). Nope, we picked this tiny little town because it’s on the western edge of Big Bend and has a few campgrounds (read hot and dusty parking lots) that can handle a big rig like ours. Campgrounds within Big Bend NP don’t have accommodations for large motorhomes, so we stayed at Roadrunner Travelers RV Park in Terlingua.

Desert scenery in Terlingua
Cemetery near Terlingua's Ghost Town

Big Bend National Park:

On our first day, we drove into the park via the Maverick Junction entrance and made sure to get our picture at the park sign. From there, it was another 22-mile drive to the Panther Junction Visitor Center and park headquarters building.  I told you this park was remote!  We enjoyed the 20-minute film about the park and its history before exploring the exhibits and park store and, of course, getting my passport book stamped.

Entering Big Bend
Panther Junction is the biggest of 5 visitor centers

Next, we headed out into the park to experience the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This 30-mile paved road gives you a good overview of the park’s geologic splendor as it passes mountain peaks, massive canyons, and beautiful landscapes at every turn. The numerous pullouts and overlooks showcase many of the most iconic views in the park without even doing any hikes.

Beautiful view of the Rio Grande
View from Sol Vista overlook

But, if you know us, we did have to do some hikes!  We picked several different ones over the following days so we could experience each of the park’s ecosystems: river, mountain, and desert.

Big Bend River:

Heading into Santa Elena Canyon

The name of the park comes from the fact that its 800,000 acres are situated on the “big bend” in the Rio Grande River. Our first hike was to Santa Elena Canyon where dramatic 1500-foot canyon walls rise up along the river as it winds its way between Texas and Mexico. This popular 1.5-mile hike crosses Terlingua Creek and then climbs to a high viewpoint before winding its way down to the river’s edge along the narrow canyon.

Rio Grande cuts through the steep canyon walls

Big Bend Mountains:

Located in the center of Big Bend, the Chisos Mountains is the only mountain range totally contained within a single national park.  A 7-mile road winds its way to the basin where you can find a lodge, restaurant, small visitor center, gift shop, and campground. Mike did ask one of the workers about workamping jobs in the park and we were told that yes, they could get our motorhome into the park if we worked there…but it would require shutting down the narrow, curvy road and providing a police escort! Hmmmm…..maybe not!

Spectacular views as we hiked up Lost Mine Trail

From the Chisos Basin you can hike numerous trails. We started with the 4.8-mile Lost Mine Trail up the side of Lost Mine Peak. After 1100 feet gain in elevation, we had spectacular views of Juniper Canyon. We didn’t find the lost mine, though, where legend held that Spanish explorers discovered a secret silver and gold mine.

We made it to the top!

We also hiked the Window Trail which was 5.6 miles through Oak Creek Canyon. At the end you reach a pour-off with a large cliff that frames a beautiful panoramic view of the desert valley below. We even saw some Aoudad sheep resting nearby!  If you are really looking for a challenge, try the South Rim Trail and Emory Peak which involves 15 miles of strenuous hiking.  We are saving that one for our next visit.

Heading into Oak Creek Canyon towards the Window
View into the valley from the rock "window"

Big Bend Desert:

The Chihuahuan Desert covers about 80% of the park and surrounds the Chisos Mountains. We hiked the 2.2-mile Grapevine Hills Trail which follows a gravel wash out to a landscape of boulders. Once we climbed up the boulder area (and after only a few wrong turns) we made it to the cool group of balanced rocks overlooking the Chihuahuan Desert.

Trail out to the boulder area
We found the balanced rocks!

The second desert trail we did was Upper Burro Mesa. This 3.8-mile hike follows another sandy wash through a narrow canyon to the 100-foot pour-off to the valley below.

Mike making his way down to the pour-off

While a desert is often thought of as a desolate expanse of empty space, you might be surprised to learn that Big Bend is home to over 1300 different types of plants, 75 species of mammals, and 450 varieties of birds. In addition to seeing diverse plant and animal life, we enjoyed the geographic contrasts and the stunning views in this amazing park. 

Blue bird on Lost Mine Trail
Coyote on the way to Grapevine Hills Trail
Aoudad sheep near the Window

Spring and fall are great times to visit Big Bend National Park.  The weather is moderate and many flowering plants are in bloom.  Kayaking, birding, and hiking are just some of the fun activities here.  You could visit many times and not see all that this stunning park has to offer! 

Blooming bluebonnets near Panther Junction

For more info on visiting national parks, see my post here.

4 Comments

  1. Cindy Aultman

    Such a beautiful place! Thanks for the pictures we always enjoy seeing where you are. Love this blog.

  2. I really enjoyed this post! Such scenic views and the hiking trails are amazing. My favorite picture is the one from Juniper Canyon and the Balanced Rock is unreal. Thanks for sharing this! Stay safe out there my dear cousin 🙂

    • Thanks, Sandi! I was really surprised how pretty Big Bend was given that it’s way out in the desert. We timed it right that many flowers were still blooming, which made it very special. We appreciate you following along on our journeys🥰

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